I Custodi "Pistus" Etna Rosso 2015
Yes, yes.. If you’re a wine dork like me, it may seem as though Mount Etna has already played out. Many of the wines have jumped north of my budget in the last 5 years. Let me introduce to you to the, the “Pistus” by I Custodi.
I Custodi is a small winery owned by Mario Paoluzi who has teamed up with Salvo Foti, a famed Etna oenologist, to produce wines from indigenous varieties in Etna. The Etna DOC is located on the eastern side of Sicily, the island kicked by the boot of Italy. Etna DOC is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. Growers here have a real advantage of well-draining volcanic soils. The slopes feature a strata of different geologic formations due to their fertile volcanic makeup. The other advantage to viticulture on Mount Etna is the almost alpine climate in an otherwise Mediterranean terroir, the incredibly high altitudes of the region lead to huge day-to-night temperature swings that give great aromatics to the wines. All of these advantages are overshadowed by the risky proposition of farming on an active volcano.
I Custodi is a part of an important collective of Sicilian producers called “I Vigneri”. The “Maestranza dei Vigneri” (“Winegrowers Guild”) was established in Catania in 1435. This important association of vine cultivators working in the Etna region was the foundation for professionalism in wine growing and production. After 500 years, I Vigneri is today the name of an association of wine growers and producers operating exclusively around Etna and in eastern Sicily. The proprietors are vine experts like Salvo Foti and a group of local growers from the Etna region.
I Vigneri is the culmination of more than 30 years experience in Eastern Sicily of historic, social and technical research aimed at achieving “excellence” in wine growing and producing. They seek to use non-invasive methods and systems to respect local traditions and utilize only ancient and indigenous grape varieties. I Vigneri is also a holistic system of grape growing and wine production with respect to the environment.
The Wine:
Made of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio, the “Pistus” comes from the northern slopes of the Etna DOC. The wine has a bright ruby color and a medium body. It features notes of mature black plum, dark fruit, purple flower mushroom and earth. On the palate, aromas are confirmed with good acidic persistence with a long, drying finish.